With a bit of a delay, I finally finished the instructions for the skirt. So, For this skirt we work top – down starting at the waistband. We can work this skirt in rows or in rounds. Below you can find the instructions for the first method, which is to work in rows, stitching the edges on the back, forming a tube. For the second method (in the round) you have to follow the same instructions until the row 20 and then join the next rows with slst into the first stitch without turning. I should note that in the second method, all rows after the 20th are worked only with fpdc (see abbreviations). The instructions for the buttons are the same for the both methods.

skirt

Abbreviations:

st(s): stitch(es)

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

hdc: half double crochet

slst: slip stitch

fpdc: front post double crochet (insert the hook from front to back to front around the post)

bpdc: back post double crochet (insert the hook from back to front to back around the post)

ps: puff stitch

crochet-skirt

Start with the waistband:

The waistband is comprised of fpdc or bpdc depending on wether you want to work on right or wrong side. Since this stitch has a tendency to curl up, we crochet the first rows with single crochet that we then fold bacwards and stitch, so that it stands better.

Work a starting chain as long as your waist measurments. The starting chain must be multiple of 10 plus 1. You should make a sample with sc first, It whould be esier to calculate the exact number of chains you need.

Ch 1 and turn.

Row 1: Work 1 sc in each st. Ch1 and turn.

Rows 2 -5: Repeat row 1. On the last row don’t Ch1. Turn

Row 6: Ch 3 (count as 1 dc). Work 1 dc into the front loop in each st. Turn.

Row 7: Ch 2 (cound as dc). Work 1 fpdc in each st. Turn.

Row 8: Ch 2. Work 1 bpdc in each st. Turn.

Rows 9 – 12: Repeat rows 7-8, two more times. Turn.

Τhe waistband is complete and we start with the skirt pattern.

For the skirt:

Row 13: Ch 3. * Work 1 dc in same st. Work 1 dc into the next 2 sts. Ch 2, skip 2 sts and slst in next st. Ch 2, skip the next 2 sts and work 1 dc into the next 3 sts. Ch 2.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. On the last repeat don’t finish with ch 2, but Ch 1 and dc in the last st. Every repeat begins on the last stitch of the previous one. Turn.

Row 14: Ch 3, skip the space and * work 1 dc into the next 3 sts (the dc of the previous row). Ch 2, skip the ch2,slst,ch2 space and work 1 bpdc into the next 3 sts. Ch2 and slst into the ch2 space. Ch 2.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. On the last repeat don’t ch 2 after the slst. Turn.

Row 15: Ch 3. * Work 1 ps into the slst. Ch 1 and work 1 fpdc into the next 3 sts. Skip the ch2 space and work 1 fpdc into the next 3 sts. Ch 1, skip the ch 3 space and work 1 ps into the slst. Ch 2*. Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. On the last repeat finish the row with 1 hdc after the ps into the same st. Turn.

Row 16: Ch3. *Work 1 ps into the same st. Ch 1, skip the ps and ch1 space and work 1 bpdc into the next 6 sts. Ch 1 and work a ps into the ch2 space. Ch 2*. Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. On the last repeat work the ps and then hdc in the same st. Turn.

Row 17: Repeat row 16, working with fpdc instead of the bpdc. Turn.

Row 18: Repeat row 16. Turn.

Row 19: *Ch2. Skip the ps and ch1 space and work 1 fpdc into the next 3 sts. Ch2 and work 1 fpdc into the next 3 sts. Ch2, skip the ch1 space and the ps and slst into the ch2 space*. Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. Turn.

Row 20: Ch 3. *Skip the ch space and work 1 bpdc into the next 3 sts. Ch 2 and slst into the ch2 space. Ch 2 and work 1 bpdc into the next 3 sts. Ch 2*. Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. On the last repeat ch 1 end work 1 hdc into the last st. Turn.

Row 21: Ch 2. * Skip the space and work 1 fpdc into the next 3 sts. Ch 1 and work 1 ps into the slst. Ch 2 and work 1 ps into the same st. Ch 1 and work 1 fpdc into the next 3 sts. Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. Work 1 hdc into the last st. Turn.

Row 22: Ch2. * Work 1 bpdc into the next sts. Ch1, skip the ch1 space and the ps and work 1 ps into the ch2 space. Ch 2 and work 1 ps into the same space. Ch 1, skip the next space and work 1 bpdc into the next 3 sts*. Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. Work 1 hdc into the last st. Turn.

Row 23: Repeat row 22 working with fpdc insted of the bpdc. Turn.

Row 24: Repeat row 22. Turn.

Row 25: Ch 2. *Work 1 fpdc into the next 3 sts. Ch 2, skip the ch1 space and the ps and slst into the ch2 space. Ch 2, skip the ps and the ch1 space and work 1 fpdc into the next 3 sts. Ch 2*. Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. On the last repeat ch 1 and work 1 hdc into the last st. Turn.

Repeat the rows 14 to 25 until you reach the desired length for your skirt.

Fold the skirt and stitch the back seam, leaving the first 20 rows open. For better results don’t sew on the very edge, but insert your needle into the second stitch.

back-seam

For the buttonholes band:

Fold the first 5 rows inside and sew them in the back face of the waistband.

Row 1: Attach new yarn in the right corner and work 20 sc across the opening, until you reach the sender seam. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: Work 1 sc into the first 2 st. *Ch 3, skip the next 3 sts and work 1 sc into the next 3 sts*. Repeat from * to* 2 more times. Ch1 and turn.

Row 3: Work 1 sc in each sts. Fasten off and weave in ends.

For the button band:

Attach new yarn on the inside of the opening and work 20 sc across. Fasten off and weave in ends. Sew your buttons.

Thats it! If you decide to make this skirt I would love to see your photos.

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